In the heart of Herat’s old city, just a short walk from the historic Chaharsuq, stands a monumental structure that once served as one of the largest and most important trade centers in the region. The Mokhtarzada Caravanserai, remarkable in both scale and design, was not merely a local marketplace but a major hub of regional commerce—whose architectural form and economic function remain unparalleled even today.
Strategic Location and Commercial Significance
Herat, with a history spanning more than two millennia, has long occupied a strategic position at the crossroads of trade routes linking present-day Iran, Central Asia, and the Indian subcontinent. This geographic advantage transformed the city into a vibrant commercial hub where goods, cultures, and ideas converged. Caravanserais played a central role in this system, and among them, the Mokhtarzada Caravanserai stood out for its size, organization, and economic significance.
Located approximately 100 meters from Chaharsuq toward the historic Iraq Gate, the caravanserai was constructed between 1236 and 1239 (Solar Hijri calendar) by master builder Mohammad Ismail Memar, according to records preserved by the Aga Khan Trust. Built on three levels and spanning 2,114 square meters, the structure was designed as a fully integrated commercial complex, combining trade, storage, accommodation, and logistics within a single architectural entity.
istorical accounts indicate that caravans from various cities and countries across the region regularly passed through Mokhtarzada Caravanserai. Merchants bought and sold goods here before transporting them to other markets. Textile products—particularly fabrics and clothing—formed the backbone of trade activities, reinforcing Herat’s historical reputation as a regional center for textiles.
Architectural Design and Functional Layout
The architectural design of the caravanserai reflects a sophisticated understanding of commercial needs. Upon entering through its historic gate and corridor, visitors arrive at a covered timcheh, illuminated by skylights embedded in the brick ceiling. Shops and rooms line this space on two levels. Beyond it lies the main courtyard—open to the sky—urrounded on all four sides by rooms arranged across three floors, with a large brick-vaulted warehouse at the center.
Each level served a distinct function: the basement was used primarily for loading and storage, the ground floor accommodated commercial offices and trading spaces, and the upper floor functioned as living quarters for merchants and travelers. Some commercial units were vertically integrated, connected by private staircases linking the basement, ground floor, and upper levels—an arrangement that suggests a highly organized trading system. In total, the caravanserai contained 96 rooms and shops: 26 in the basement, 38 on the ground floor, and 32 on the upper floor.
Beyond its commercial spaces, the complex included management offices, kitchens, water reservoirs for drinking supply, designated snow storage areas for winter use, stables for horses and camels, and sanitation facilities. While many of these spaces have since disappeared or lost their original function, their existence underscores the caravanserai’s role as a self-sustaining commercial hub.
What truly distinguishes the Mokhtarzada Caravanserai is its architectural and decorative sophistication. The structure features elaborately patterned bricks with Islamic geometric and floral motifs, particularly on its columns and walls. Each side of every floor contains 12 columns and eight half-columns, totaling 86 columns and 20 rounded half-columns throughout the building. Decorative brickwork is concentrated on the northern, eastern, and western sides, while the southern façade features simpler designs. Ceilings vary across the structure—some rooms are covered with carved wooden panels, while the entrance timcheh, central warehouse, and select shops are topped with brick vaults constructed using traditional techniques. Integrated wind catchers once regulated airflow, providing natural ventilation during hot summers.
Current Challenges and Future Prospects
Despite its architectural brilliance and historical importance, the caravanserai now faces serious structural threats. Over time—and particularly following the powerful 2023 earthquake in Herat—cracks and fractures have appeared in its walls and foundations. In several sections, metal supports and scaffolding have been installed to prevent ceiling collapse. Cultural heritage experts warn that without timely restoration, or in the event of another seismic shock, parts of the structure could collapse.
Today, the building remains partially in use. Some rooms and the central basement are used as storage for nearby shopkeepers. Cultural activists argue that such use is incompatible with the building’s historical value and accelerates its deterioration, emphasizing the urgent need for a comprehensive restoration plan.
Abdullah Kazemi, the caretaker of Mokhtarzada Caravanserai appointed by its owner, Mohammad Younus Mukhtarzada, explains that although the property is privately owned, the owner views it as a cultural and historical symbol rather than a commercial asset. According to Kazemi, the long-term vision is to transform the restored caravanserai into a cultural and artistic center—hosting handicrafts, art exhibitions, local cuisine, and cultural tourism activities—provided that sufficient institutional or international support becomes available.
Kazemi maintains a small art studio within the caravanserai, where he practices kah-chini, a traditional straw-based art form. Through delicate lines, symbols, and geometric compositions, his work creates a living bridge between the building’s historic identity and contemporary cultural expression.
While smaller caravanserais still exist in Herat, cultural officials emphasize that the Mokhtarzada Caravanserai stands apart. Its sheer scale, advanced commercial layout, and architectural complexity make it a rare—and possibly unmatched—example not only in Afghanistan but across the wider region. Preserving this structure is therefore not merely an act of conservation, but a safeguarding of the region’s economic memory and cultural heritage—one that, if neglected, risks being lost forever.
